Let me make a confession right away. The first time I visited Rishikesh was just like any other tourist. Having put up in Roorkee, Rishikesh was a perfect weekend getaway. All I did was check the top things to do in Rishikesh on various travel websites, then roamed around for a couple of hours, visited some iconic spots, picked up woolens, crochet work kurtas, wooden ladles, and returned home by dusk. Everything about the place was touristy. But then I didn’t notice the sadhus in deep meditation, foreigners seeking inner peace and… of course, little did I know that I would come back over and over again for some soulsearching and to just find myself.
A sense of calm washed over me as I stood on the banks of the mighty Ganges. It was a cold winter evening and the emerald green water was so crystal clear that I could see the smoothness of the rocks underneath. I cupped my hands to take a draft of the ice-cold water and splashed on my face. And I have to admit that it was exciting. I decided to take a walk across the Ram Jhula to arrive at the Parmarth Niketan Ashram.
Once the formalities were completed, I decided to sit on one of the garden benches to simply soak it all in. The well-maintained gardens, the trees, and statues, the softness in the eyes of occupants of the ashram- how easy it is to feel a sense of peace, of serenity here.
Then I saw the Rudraksha tree. Known as the teardrop of Lord Rudra (Shiva), I so wanted to find the Rudraksha fruit. And there it was – just one, peeping through the leaves. Rudraksha is often believed to symbolize the link between the earth and the heaven. An object of veneration and also the source to reach the higher self, Rudraksha beads are the seeds obtained from the fruit – perfect for the body, mind and spiritual gains.
Amidst the beautiful garden also stood the Kalpvriksha tree, the divine tree of heaven. It was planted by Vijaypal Baghel of Himalaya Vahini.
And then I met her. Her name, I do not know. Why didn’t I ask her, I wonder. She was a solo traveler from Canada who decided to take a break from the constant stress and anxieties of life and embark on a spiritual journey. She had been to McLeodGang before and decided to visit Rishikesh, and then found the whole experience so gripping that she decided to stay back this time.
I was in awe when she explained about her stay in the Ashram, where each day started with meditation, followed by practicing Yoga, daily Satsang and lecture programs, kirtans, and the famous Ganga Arti at sunset which is attended by hundreds every day. They always had a regime, a soothing, calming one- away from worldly pleasures.
The Parmarth Niketan Ashram founded by Pujya Swami Sukhdevanandji Maharaj, in pre-independence 1942 also practices scientific Ayurvedic physiotherapeutic processes like acupuncture, Reiki, and mental pressure control.
She took me to that part of the Ashram where stood the 14 feet high Shiva statue (The featured image of this post) which got washed away in the 2013 Uttarakhand flood. It looked so empty now. How soothing it would be to feel Lord Shiva’s energy in the morning winds that would howl down the valley in winter, I wondered.
I saw the elderly woman who came to the Ashram some 45 years ago. She may be 80 years old now, living a simple life, lending a hand in preparing the meals, watering the garden, and feeding the cattle. Her face looked plausibly radiant. She was speaking to one of the inhabitants of the Ashram and then fell into her melancholy musings again.
I walked along the streets.
There were fruit vendors… | … who were happy to part with a banana or two for the monkeys…
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… and the monkey not wanting to share it with the cows… | … and a family of cows soaking in the sun. |
I continued to walk along the mighty Ganges at dusk. It’s fascinating to think that a lady would travel miles from the comfort of her home and people, and would come to a place in search of inner peace. Like her, there would be thousands in this sacred city Rishikesh. Holy cows, Om symbols, and orange-robed sadhus; fresh mountain air, sunrise over the peaks and a torrential river; incense wafts on the breeze, temple bells ring incessantly, and yogis seen everywhere – the signs and symbols of a sacred Indian town.
I closed my eyes and tears streamed down my face. The divine simplicity and serenity of the place was greater than just a fleeting feeling. Rishikesh is a way of life. It is that kind of a place where people end up staying for long stretches of time. Some return again and again. And then there are those who really never leave, at least not in spirit. For me, Rishikesh was only a small town in North India which is scenically located at the spot where the Ganga spills out of the foothills of the Himalayas and begins her long journey across the plains of India to the Bay of Bengal. But now, I think there is much more to it.
Everyone should take a hiatus from the hustle-and-bustle of life. Have a quiet moment of introspection in this peaceful city. Go on solitary walks along the banks of river Ganges, trek in Rishikesh, walk across the Lakshman Jhula, chat with travelers in cafes, shop, eat at Chotiwala, do water rafting, and experience an unprecedented level of tranquility.
Sitharaam Jayakumar says
I got my first job in Rishikesh. I did not have much time to visit places. I just attended an interview and went back. From your description it sounds simply wonderful. I am now settled in Kerala. Next time I visit north India I will certainly drop in at Rishikesh.
Esha says
So nice to know about your soul-searching experience at Rishikesh, Shalini! I love these kinds of experiences because they bring me so much peace and calm and a sense of spiritual fulfilment that is otherwise missing in our everyday lives. I loved the lucidity with which you described your experiences…one can almost ‘see’ the place through your words. Rishikesh has been on my list of places to visit. I only hope it happens someday soon!
Anamika Agnihotri says
I had been to Rishikesh in the year 1999 and one thing which differentiated it from Haridwar was the quiet and peace. We walked across the iconic Lakshman Jhula and it felt like we became a part of history and mythology in that moment. Sitting and spending some time on the riverside was relaxing. Reading about the Canadian spiritual seeker, it makes me think how easy and difficult can it be to pursue one’s spirituality.
Soumya says
The place looks so soulful and peaceful. Someday, I’ll go there for the peace 🙂
Beautiful pictures! That first image of Shiva, will stay with me for a long time.
shirley corder says
I love your photos – and the sense of peace that radiates from them as well as your description. Thank you for sharing. Christmas Every Day – Guest Post by S.African author, Dalene Reyburn
Lata Sunil says
You are really tempting me to visit the place. The photos are beautiful.
SHILPA GARG says
Splendid post Shalini! Being in Rishikesh certainly soothes mind and soul 😊….nice to read your experience!
Kala Ravi says
You have captured the essence of Rishikesh so beautifully Shalini. My parents have visited Rishikesh several times and have told me how much in love with that place they are. They in fact considered settling down there post retirement, however the cold winters was a deterrent. I visited this place a few years ago and it was merely a touristy visit. The mighty Ganges is indeed a sight to behold! One needs time and the right frame of mind for this soul-searching place!
Keerthi Vydyula says
What a lovely heart-felt read Shalini! Loved reading it and i could connect to what you conveyed in this beautiful write-up. It is true that when we visit a new place it is best to see it and experience it in our own way rather than following a basic tourist guide, exploring its true essence will leave its mark in our hearts forever!
divyakshi says
Beautifully penned. You took me on a lovely nostalgic walk done the lanes of Rishikesh. Got back so many memories. Visiting Parmarth Niketan with my grandparents, seeing the Ganga Aarti , gorging over Aloo Poori and litchis and walking along the Ganga river in the evening. You said it so well, yes it is a way of life, some return and keep retuning to the peace of Rishikesh. I went back too for rafting:) It is so amazing that you met the lady and her story of simplicity is heartwarming. Such encounters make travel worthwhile! 🙂