I grew up reading and listening to the sacrifices and brave tales of our freedom fighters. My dad played a huge role in it, mostly because he was my History teacher. I used to listen to his lectures in awe and all thanks to him, I could always envision the historical events and some of the darkest events in our history. One such is the Jallianwala Bagh Massacre and I still remember how deeply it affected my little heart.
I was in Amritsar last month and as I entered the gates of Jallianwala Bagh, a shiver ran down my spine. To get to the memorial area, you need to walk through a narrow passageway, which is the reason why the massacre is so devastating. This is the only entrance/opening to get to the garden.
On 13 April 1919, a crowd of peaceful protestors and Baisakhi pilgrims gathered in Jallianwala Bagh, Amritsar. They were fired upon by troops of the British Indian Army under the command of Brigadier General Dyer.
Jallianwala Bagh Massacre
Down the Memory Lane
- It all began with the Rowlatt Act, which was passed in March 1919. It was widely condemned by Indian leaders and the public alike, for the act authorized the British government to arrest anybody suspected of terrorist activities, search a place without a warrant, and detain people up to 2 years without trial.
- A nationwide harthal was called by Gandhiji on 6 April.
- On 9 April, the harthal was called off and prominent Congress leaders were arrested.
- On 10th April, people went to meet the then Lieutenant Governor General Michael O’ Dwyer to demand the release of the leaders arrested. However, they were fired upon and this angered the public. Riots and protests made the situation in Punjab alarming. Martial law was implemented which meant it was unlawful for more than 4 people to gather at a place.
- On 11th April, Brigadier General Dyer occupied the civil administration of the town.
- On 13th April the Baisakhi Day, a public meeting was announced to be held in the Jallianwala Bagh in the evening. Dyer along with a force of 150 troops took up their positions on an elevated ground towards the main entrance, the narrow lane in which hardly two men could walk abreast. At six minutes to sunset, he ordered his troops to fire at the unarmed crowd of about 20,000 people which included children as well. It went on for about 10 minutes and around 1650 rounds were fired. A massacre was perpetrated, the like of which has no parallel in history in barbarous and cruelty.
- The British Indian officials estimated the fatalities as 379, with 1100 wounded. However, the numbers estimated by the Indian National Congress was with more than 1500 casualties and with approximately 1000 killed.
- The incident came as a horrifying shock to Indians and many condemned it. As a protest, Rabindranath Tagore gave up his knighthood and Gandhiji relinquished his title ‘Kaiser-e-hind’.
- However, Dyer was appreciated by many in Britain and the British in India. The government set up the Hunter Commission to inquire into the massacre. Although the commission condemned the act by Dyer, it did not impose any disciplinary action against him. He was relieved of his duties in the army in 1920.
- Udham Singh who is believed to have witnessed the massacre as a child assassinated Michael O’Dwyer in London in 1940 as revenge against the massacre.
Check out this scene from the movie ‘Gandhi’ to visualize the horror.
This scene played in my head as I walked along the confined entrance to the Memorial. I couldn’t fathom the effect of the monstrosity that was about to unveil in front of me. There stood the commemorative in all its glory amidst a beautifully maintained garden.
The Jallianwala Bagh Memorial is a 455 foot red stone pillar built in the form of a flame.
Before you get to the memorial, you get to see this:
-the stone set up to indicate from where the firings occurred. As if that didn’t leave me horror-struck, I stepped foot on the Martyr’s Gallery which showcases in pictures the many who lost their lives in this brutal betrayal.
Martyr’s Well stands as a testimony to the barbarous killings of innocent people. I had a lump in my throat trying to envision the reality back then. Bullets fired at random, the stampede, the shrieks, the cries, bodies dropping dead, people jumping into the well only to choose a more desirable form of death.
Towards the center of the garden are the walls with bullet marks.
I get the creeps even by revisiting these photographs.
Over 1650 rounds of bullets fired! The mere thought is truly nerve-wracking.
I moved silently towards the Amar Jyoti – the flame of immortal souls. Looking into the fire, I envisaged the savagery and inhumanity. And then I felt so thankful for the freedom I enjoy today. I can speak my mind, get to meet a friend or two, travel, and simply live a carefree life.
The freedom I enjoy right now is not free. There are millions who sacrificed their lives for me. Isn’t our generation oblivious to this fact? To the hardships of the past? We complain about anything and everything around us – slow internet, a celebrity kid being named Taimur, or simply how many were ready to chop off the head of a leading actress all because she chose to act in a historical fiction. Ha! a century ago, one had to thank their stars to live another day.
I wish the government did something to keep the sanctity of the place intact. I observed people taking weird selfies, laughing in front of the bullet-riddled walls, few taking a power nap, and kids playing cricket. The place looked more or less like a picnic spot. Jallianwala Bagh is nothing short of a war memorial; like the Hiroshima or Kargil. I wish it was treated with utmost sincerity and respect. I missed that solemn air around it.
Quick Facts on Jallianwala Bagh
- The visiting time is from 6.30 am to 7.30 pm. There is no entry fee.
- Jallianwala Bagh is situated next to the Partition Museum and close to Sri Harminder Sahib or the Golden Temple.
- Drinking water and Washroom facilities are available inside.
- Gandhi, Phillauri, Downtown Abbey, The Legend of Bhagat Singh, Rang de Basanti, Midnight’s Children and Jallianwala Bagh are few movies that depict the massacre.
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Each visit to Jallianwala Bagh sends chills down my spine too. The martyr’s well, the shooting point, the bullet marks on walls and the horrifying stories bring tears to eyes. I last visited in Dec 2017.
You are brave! You ventured in and took pics and expereinced the place again! I had been there once and ran out in 5 mts as I was overwhelmed by the sheer atrocity that was committed here. I couldnt walk around the garden in peace and have made it a point to never go in again.
I agree with your view point on this to be made into a memorial and not treated like a company park as is done in Amritsar – people can be seen lolling around and sleeping or eating! Its definitely not a place to picnic but then maybe these folks havent really gotten the gravity of this place yet!
I was there in Jan, and yes you are right every Indian must visit this sacred place. Love those pics
I am glad you shared this post and the pictures because this is such an important part of our history, that we’ve all grown up reading about in our history lessons. I agree with Shalini, it is spine-chilling when you think of the atrocities the innocent people faced, a bit like the shootings that happen even today albeit on a much much larger scale. It will always remain a very painful chapter that most of us choose to ignore because we cannot stand up to the tragedy, the sheer horror and the shock that still makes us curl up and run away!
My hair was standing at its end as I was reading this. Like you I have watched the scene from the movie that etches out the horror, atrocity od Gen Dwyer and helplessness of the massacred. I don’t think I have it in me to brave the feeling and visit this place. Still hats off to you for doing so and writing such an informative post.
I think peopple use it as a garden because they simply don’t know the history of the place and as it happended such a long time ago, it means very little to people. Only when freedom is taken away do we realise the value of it. We have forgotten how to honour our past and that is very sad. Very nicely written. I would like to visit someday.
Beautifully captures !! we too were there in 2014 January and found this place – a sacred and proud for all Indians
Dear Shalini whenever I stand at a war memorial I begin to cry. And believe me I never cry even when chopping onions. I don’t think I will be able to see this sad place where I still believe many lost souls are still wandering. Unfortunately our fellow Indians lack any sense of patriotism and pride in their country. Memorials as these are treated with a casualness that is apalling. Can you imagine some Indians don’t even want to stand for a minute for the National Anthem? I wonder when we will appreciate the sacrifice of millions who are making this country possible…..
No matter how many times I read about this, watch it or hear about it, I have a lump in my throat. You’ve captured that feeling exactly, Shalini. How much we have to be grateful for, isn’t it? We choose to complain, rant and vent. A large part of that is the outrage machine that is always on in terms of social media. Reading about posts like these (which by the way, is very very well written) will help people reflect on the magnitude of something like our freedom and why we should truly cherish every moment we have.
Thank you, Shalini.
This post and pictures brought back memories of our visit to Jalianwala Bagh in 2010. This massacre is the saddest one in our history and it will never fade away from our memories!
Firstly Awesome clicks. You have got them perfect. WHat moves me are those bullet marks. If they could riddle holes on to the wall, the impact they would have made, the mass shrieks, the pain and the chaos that it would have created is simply unimaginable. It is a site that Speaks volumes on our struggles and also the people who prefered jumping into the well than face those bullets.
Just reading about the place made my eyes well up, Shalini! You are so right…the freedom we enjoy today is not free, but how many from today’s generation realise this? They aren’t even aware of all the hardships and sacrifices our patriots made so that we could live in peace! I have a lump in my throat as I type this comment. A salute to our heroes..Hope our generation and every future generation learns about the lives they led and the battles they fought so we could breathe in a free India!
I am speechless. Freedom that we enjoy today has a costliest price tag . Do we appreciate it? Check out any news channel or the print media, They speak of some mindless unrest and hatred. I wish, we could some how get these rioters to Jalianwala Baugh. The tell a tale signs here may bring some wisdom to their minds.
Well written with detailed historical events. Yes, I agree with your post title that every Indian must visit this historical place to understand the importance of freedom we have got. Photos are really touching,
Thanks for sharing.
What a horrific act of violence, made worse by the fact that there were people who actually celebrated it. The memorial to it is beautiful and I hope that it can be maintained in a beautiful way to stand as a reminder that this sort of cruelty must never happen again.
Oh I remember reading about it and being deeply impacted. It was barbaric. And i agree that the sanctity of the place should be maintained and respected. You did an excellent job in stating all the historical facts. A lot of which I had forgotton. I didn’t know the general was killed later.
Have passed through this tiny lane umpteen times while going to the golden temple and guess what , have never mustered the courage to go there. I would be probably wailing like a kid if I ever went. Being a staunch history lover, this particular incident has impacted me so profoundly, that it brings a lump in my throat whenever I see it in movies. I so agree with you, when you say such places should have a solemn air and not be picnic spots. I have written about similar stupidity happening in cellular jail where couples were posing distastefully where freedom fighters lost their lives. Very well written Shalini!